Gluey models
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- gavmeister13
- Contributor
- Posts: 290
- Joined: Tue Oct 15, 2002 7:48 am
- Location: Cornwall, England
Gluey models
i recently finished a model, but having not made one for ages im a bit rusty and got some gluey fingerprints on the front. does anyone have any tips for removing these?
Glue Prints
If you are talking about a plastic model and regular model cement, I don't think there's much that can be done except using sandpaper to get rid of those glue prints. It all depends on where and how badly the model is damaged. Try to use as fine a grit as possible in order not to cause any more damage or remove any detail. Smooth the surface out and apply more paint. If you are working on an armored vehicle, it could be possible to hide the marks by adding weathering details like mud, branches for camoflauge, equipment for the crew, etc.
You could try some of the model sites to see what kind of advice they may have.
Hope this helps,
Rick
You could try some of the model sites to see what kind of advice they may have.
Hope this helps,
Rick
- Wurger
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- Location: Establishing a 5th column in your country . . .
As stated above, careful sanding with a fine grit sandpaper, or with an emory board should remove the finger-marks.
For future model projects, you might want to consider using a fine brush to apply liquid cement without excess spillage. The brushes the manufacturers (Testors) usually build into the jars are too clumsy to be of real use. Above all, NEVER use the thick tube glues - if that is what you used on your current model, throw it away and switch to liquid cement, or, if you are feeling confident, a cyanoacrylic ('crazy glue').
Regards,
Wurger
For future model projects, you might want to consider using a fine brush to apply liquid cement without excess spillage. The brushes the manufacturers (Testors) usually build into the jars are too clumsy to be of real use. Above all, NEVER use the thick tube glues - if that is what you used on your current model, throw it away and switch to liquid cement, or, if you are feeling confident, a cyanoacrylic ('crazy glue').
Regards,
Wurger
- Christian Ankerstjerne
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- Joined: Fri Sep 27, 2002 8:30 am
- Location: The Kingdom of Denmark
Tenax 7R is a highly liquid glue (like water) which is very good for gluing. Just hold the parts together (be carefull not to touch near the seam during aplication), and use a brush to applicate a small drop at one end. The drop shoudl then spread out over the seam, welding the parts together in seconds...
- Wurger
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- Posts: 364
- Joined: Mon Sep 30, 2002 8:19 am
- Location: Establishing a 5th column in your country . . .
I think choice of glues is a matter of personal preference. I've used nothing but cyanoacrylates since I got back into model building eight years ago.
I prefer using this type of glue simply because it forms its own bond rather than welding the plastic - thus, no distortion, no fingerprints etc. On top of that, it sands fairly well and can be used to fill gaps, scratches etc.
Regards,
Wurger
I prefer using this type of glue simply because it forms its own bond rather than welding the plastic - thus, no distortion, no fingerprints etc. On top of that, it sands fairly well and can be used to fill gaps, scratches etc.
Regards,
Wurger